Transportation, maintenance, repair, storage

The vast majority of damage done to kayaks is by improper transport. A good rack system allows you to transport your kayak on the top of your car or truck safely and securely. To avoid deforming your kayak’s hull it’s best to place your kayak on it’s side. If you must have the kayak flat on your car’s roof, make sure to place it with the deck resting on the racks. Not only in this position more aerodynamic, and prevents your kayak from filling up with rainwater but it also avoids damage to the hull. By using an upright "stacker" bar you can attach multiple kayaks, side by side on the roof of your vehicle, but make sure to place hull against hull and deck against deck to guard against deformation. To avoid hull deformation, do not leave the boat tied tightly to the vehicle for an extended period or in the hot sun.

To attach you kayak to your car use stretch-free straps or rope. Pass the strap/rope through each support than securely around the kayak. Remember to also pass the strap through at least one grab handle or security bar and then to the front bumper of the car, as the last thing anybody wants is for their kayak to catch air at 60mph. Straps and rope can easily loosen (especially when wet) so check your kayaks regularly to make sure they are still secure. To protect against theft use your kayak’s security bar to lock the rack and the kayak together. Remember... damage caused by kayaks flying off car roof tops or deformations caused during transport are not covered by the warranty. After a long day on the water, DON’T FORGET YOUR KAYAK IS ON THE ROOF. You do not want to drive into the garage with it still on the rack. It may sound strange... but it happens.

Maintenance We’ve put a lot of time and thought into providing you with a quality kayak and stand behind our product 100 percent. By following a few simple maintenance steps, you can insure years of hassle free use.

• Be careful when setting your kayak down on rough or hard surfaces.
• Make sure the drain plug is closed tightly before heading out on the water.
• Always try to slide in and off a sandy beach. Never place your kayak on a surface that may cut or push inward the hull during entry.
• Regularly inspect the hull and outfitting (seat, thigh braces, backband, footbrace) of your kayak to insure their condition and retighten screws if necessary.
• Pay specific attention to the grab loops of your kayak, making sure they do not become loose or damaged.
• After using you kayak in chlorinated or salt water make sure to rinse it well with fresh water and a mild soap, paying special attention to the outfitting.
• Take care to protect your kayak from long term exposure to the sun’s rays or extreme heat, which can contribute to weakening and deformation of the hull. Ask your dealer about products designed specifically to protect your kayak against the sun.

Repair Your kayak’s hull and outfitting are built bomb tough, but occasionally the stresses of the whitewater environment may necessitate a repair. In the case of a break or a defect in your kayak, your first move should be to consult your warranty agreement to learn your rights. Afterwards, for everything from simple repairs to hull replacement contact your Riot retailer. With their knowledge of techniques and access to the materials your kayak will be as good as new in no time.

Storage For long term storage and to prevent hull deformation your Riot Kayak should be kept vertically on one of it’s bow or stern. Take care to protect it from long term exposure to the sun’s rays or extreme heat, which can contribute to weakening of the plastic and deformation of the hull. You may also want to cover the cockpit to guard against dust and debris. Always make sure that your kayak is dry before winter storage, and leaving small openings such as, the drain plug, will provide better ventilation.

Adjusting your kayak

Proper fit of your kayak is key, and that’s exactly why we’ve put so much effort into our Pro-Fit™ and D-4 outfitting systems. These systems are the interface between you and your kayak. The more you’re able to personalize your comfort and control, the more you’ll be able to get out of your time on the water and the more fun you’ll end up having. Now you can customize the fit of your kayak thanks to adjustable hip pads, footbraces, backband, and thighbraces. Sit in your kayak and personalize your fit by using the easy access ratchet to control your footbraces and backband, and by simply turning a set of screws, dialing in our adjustable hip pads is made easy. When it’s time to get out of your boat, just move your knees to the inside of the cockpit and exit easily. But REMEMBER: A proper fit in your kayak doesn’t necessarily mean an overly tight fit. If your legs start to cramp or fall asleep there’s a good chance your outfitting is too tight. In this case loosen things until you’re comfy.

Seat Trimming your kayak: With today’s shorter playboat designs properly trimming your kayak is crucial. A properly trimmed kayak should have bow and stern equidistant above the water’s surface while sitting on a calm section of water. To help perfect your trim, simply move your seat fore or aft by unscrewing each side of the seat where it attaches to the kayak and sliding it forward or backward. Feel free to experiment with the trim of your kayak, For aggressive playboating some paddlers prefer their kayaks trimmed slightly front heavy. It’s easy to adjust and with a little experimentation you’ll see what a large effect trim can have on your kayak’s performance characteristics. Try it out and see for yourself what you prefer.

For the ultimate in high-performance fit, it is possible (on some models) to change the Pro-Fit Hydrotech™ or D-4 seats for our freestyle specific Power Seat™ which offers advanced paddlers a molded, thermoplastic back support and a standard 2 inch lift. For more information about the Power Seat™ contact your local Riot dealer or email us at service@riotkayaks.com

Backband With the cockpit mounted ratchets it’s easy to tighten or loosen your Pro-Fit System™ Force backband while seated in the kayak. The 3 section Pro-Fit™ Force backband helps give your lower back much needed support, and when properly adjusted should allow you to sit upright with good posture. You never want to paddle with the backband overly tight (the backband should NOT be so tight as to force you to lean forward in your kayak) but feel free to tighten it before you hit the hole and loosen it while you’re hanging out in the eddy. Adjustments on the backband of the D-4 system are located on the rear of the backband.

Hip pads Much of your of control in whitewater kayaking depends on the contact between your hips and the kayak. Riot kayaks with our Pro-Fit System™ outfitting come with our easily adjustable Reflex Hip Pads™. By simply unscrewing the hip pad from the seat with a standard Phillips screw driver, these hip pads can be moved forward and upward to obtain a custom fit. You can also customize the contact between your hips and your kayak by inserting one of the foam blocks provided with your kayak. Feel free to cut the blocks to the perfect size and when you’re finished simply pass the screws back into the thermoformed hip pad, through the foam spacer and into the side of the seat. For kayaks with the D-4 outfitting system, simply trim the supplied foam hip pad to a snug fit, remove the adhesive backing and secure the pads in place.

Footbrace Systems A properly adjusted footbrace, foam footblock or adjustable bulkhead (dependent on kayak model) should allow your knees to snugly fit into the thighbraces. You’ll want to have your footbraces tight enough to keep your thighs and knees in place, but not so tight as to cause discomfort. In the case of our Pro-Fit Rider™ and Pro-Fit Extreme™ outfitting systems, the footbraces can be loosened or tightened by accessing the ratchet attached to the front of the seat (Rider) or located along each side of the kayak (Extreme).

Footbrace installation and personalization Included with your kayak are two customizable foam footbraces. By using a sharp knife you can cut down the size of a footbrace until you’re comfortable with the fit. Start by cutting less, rather than more, to insure that you’ll be snug, and remember to wear the same kind of footwear you use while kayaking so the fit will be the same. Feel free to shape the foam to the form of your feet with the knife or by using a coarse sandpaper. Once you’re happy with the length, cut the second footbrace to the same length, remove the adhesive backing and secure the pads to the plastic nose cone or bulkhead. WARNING: If you remove, to modify, the bow flotation support wall (not recommended) you must first unscrew the device located at the bow on deck.

Thigh braces Once you’re seated in the kayak the position of both thighbraces in the Pro-Fit System™ and D-4 outfitting system is individually adjustable; allowing you to further customize you knee and thigh control points. By simply adjusting the ratchets on each side of the kayak you can position where the thermoformed thigh pads are fixed, letting you dial in your own level of comfort and control. For a more aggressive feel, or more smaller sized thighs: tighten the ratchet; reducing its length. For a more relaxed feel or for paddlers with bigger thighs: release tension from the ratchet.

Fin installation Certain models of Riot kayaks are designed to accept the installation of fins which increase your kayak’s down the line speed and help amplify carving. Use the provided allen key (located in the rear support wall) to help you install and remove the standard 1 inch rubber fins or the after-market 1 or 2 inch polycarbonate fin set. Although strong, fin sets can be damaged by lateral impacts. To help protect against damage, make sure your fins are installed properly before you get on the water and while transporting your kayak. We recommend you leave the screws in place even when not using fins to help protect against dirt and damage.

Kayaking gear

Helmet Rapids are formed by water rushing over rocks. Rocks can hurt. Protect yourself by always wearing a helmet when running any level of whitewater. Proper helmet fit and coverage is crucial and can save your life. Your helmet should not move around on your head and should offer complete protection for key areas like your temples, forehead, as well as the back of your head. When your head in on the line, function is definitely more important than fashion. Make sure to choose a helmet with the appropriate shock absorbing padding and complete protection.

Personal Flotation Device (PFD) or Swim Vest Easily the most important safety gear you will ever own as a kayaker. Choose wisely. Regardless of the style of PFD you end up selecting, you’ll want to make sure that it is designed specifically for whitewater kayaking. Look for a comfortable, customizable fit which allows maximum movement of your shoulders and torso, and which stays in place, without moving around. Make sure to select a PFD with flotation that corresponds to your weight and that is designed with a highly visible color. Be sure to select a PFD for the specific type of whitewater you paddle as today PFD’s run the gamut from playboat specific vests for lightweight paddlers to expedition style jackets for the big and tall.

Whistle The noise created by rapids can be surprisingly loud. Use a whistle to signal your presence, to alert your paddling partners to a danger or to attract their attention. Although the whistle is a simple piece of equipment, you’ll want to make sure that you choose one that works without the use of any movable pieces. Make sure to wear your whistle where it can be easily and quickly accessed, but not on the main closure of your PFD as this could result in an accidental opening of your swim vest.

Skirt A good skirt should keep your kayak dry AND permit you to easily wet exit from your kayak. Riot kayaks feature a unique cockpit rim that increases thigh support and requires a special skirt shape. Before buying any skirt, you’ll want to make sure that it is designed to fit the cockpit of your particular kayak (Riot Creek boats require a larger skirt than our Playboats) When securing your skirt you’ll want to start from the back of the cockpit and work your way forward. VERY IMPORTANT: It is critical that your GRABLOOP IS ACCESSIBLE in case of wet exit. Always confirm it is out and easily reached before hitting the water and check the grabloop of your paddling partner(s) as well, just to be safe.

Throw bag In the case of an emergency, the throw bag and the rope within it, can literally be the lifeline between you and your paddling partner. The weight of a properly packed throw bag, lets your throw more effectively reach a swimmer; while the buoyancy of the cord, and a flotation disk inside the bag, lets the cord remain on the surface within reach of your target. In the case of a pin situation, the cord can also be used to help free the kayak. A good throw bag should have a minimum of 45 feet (15 meters) of cord and should be carefully packed to avoid possible entanglement. Practice on land to improve your skill.

Rescue knife It is strongly recommended that paddlers doing any sort of river running carry with them an easy accessible rescue knife. Used primarily to cut safety ropes in case of an emergency, rescue specific knives feature a serrated blade and are available from virtually every kayak retailer. If you’re doing any sort of serious river running you owe it to yourself and your paddling partners to get one.

Paddle The kayak paddle is arguably the most personal piece of equipment you use, with models existing for all tastes and budgets. Over the past decade whitewater paddle lengths have been steadily shortening. The standard length of a kayak paddle, which was once between 205cm and 210 cm, today has settled in the range of 184cm to 196cm. The evolution of kayak design and paddling style has also caused a decrease in the offset, or feather of the paddle’s blades, with the majority of kayakers now using an offset between 30 and 45 degrees. Besides length and offset, when choosing your paddle you’ll also want to consider weight and strength; both play a role in performance and durability. To prevent loss make sure your paddle is visible in the water and is personalized with your name and phone number.

Accessories and clothing

As storage space within your kayak is limited, you’ll want to divide all the necessary safety equipment among your group.

Float Bags Inflatable bags secured inside your kayak that help keep your boat from swamping in case of an unexpected swim

Break-apart paddle Every group should carry a minimum of one spare break-apart paddle. With a larger group, or on a particularly remote or long decent, you may want to bring along multiple break-apart paddles to prevent a whiteknuckle hand paddle or a long hike out.

Waterbottle Make sure to drink enough water. Dehydration can cause fatigue and misjudgment which in turn can lead to a river sized, beat-down. No one wants that to happen, so drink up.

Nose plug A cheap and easy way to prevent uncomfortable sinus problems. Make sure it’s well attached to your PFD or helmet to prevent it from heading downstream without you.

Sunglasses If you wear them, make sure they’re well attached or they’ll become river trash.

Map or Guide Book Insert your map or photocopied pages from a guidebook in a waterproof sleeve for easy consultation and always keep in mind an evacuation plan in case of an emergency. It’ll help take the stress out of you first descent down a particular run and will prove invaluable in case of an emergency.

First Aid Kit Don’t forget to keep your first aid kit dry inside your dry bag. A good kit should be easily accessible within your kayak and adaptable for the size of the group. Make sure you have plenty of waterproof matches and a roll of duct tape in your kit.

Sponge great for soaking up those last remaining annoying bits of water left in your boat after you’ve emptied it via the drainplug. You can also use it while sitting in your kayak to remove water without having to get up. Definitely an item often permanently "borrowed" by your friends. Be careful who you loan it to.

Clothing Avoid cotton, although comfortable off the water, when wet it offers no insulating value and is very slow to dry. Instead, wear synthetic fibers, like polypropylene and polyester, which keep their insulating value when wet and are quick to dry (although they can get kinda stinky.) As with many outdoor activities, you’ll want to use the "layer system," wearing multiple thin layers of clothing rather than one or two thick layers. Avoid wearing bulky clothing which will reduce your ability to move safely when wet.

When paddling spring run-off, or getting in a last play session Iate in the fall, plan for the "worst case scenario" by wearing a dry-top or dry-suit, and/or a neoprene wet suit, that will help prevent hypothermia in the event of an unplanned swim. Keep in mind the following rule of thumb: If the combined total of the air and the water temperature is under 100 degrees Fahrenheit (37 degrees Celsius) you will want to wear a wet suit or dry suit.

• Wet suit Available in full suit, shorty and "farmer john" styles, a wet suit is composed of a flexible 3mm or 4mm neoprene that works by allowing a thin layer of water between your skin and the neoprene. This layer of water is warmed by your body heat and helps fend off hypothermia. Key to the proper function of a wet suit is fit. It should be neither so tight that it causes the reduction of circulation near the skin, nor too loose that water flows freely in and out.
• Dry Suit/Dry Top Available in one and two piece versions, a dry suit uses water tight gaskets at the neck, wrist and ankles to keep you dry. A dry suit’s impermeable outer fabric does little to help insulation, instead allowing you to comfortably wear several insulating layers underneath. When the weather gets warmer, many paddlers switch to just a drytop to keep their upper torso and their kayak dry.
• Head Warmer Ultra important when the conditions get cold. Helps avoid heat loss through your head and prevents painful "ice cream" headaches caused by rolling in cold water.
• Gloves When the weather outside gets cold, neoprene gloves become indispensable. Working on the same principal as a neoprene wet suit, they allow a thin layer of water to become an insulator between your hands and the cold. Fit should not be too tight nor too loose.
• Poggies Great for protecting your hands from a cold wind while also allowing normal contact with your paddle. Their insulating neoprene design, attached directly to the paddle, lets your hands exit easily.
• River shoes/Booties Wearing a closed-toe river shoe, with a good sticky tread surface is essential for safe scouting and portaging. More than helping keep your feet warm, these shoes grant you grip on the damp rock surrounding the river, and help with traction in the event of a swim.

Whitewater Basics

This owner’s manual is a great way to get an overview of some of the equipment used in whitewater kayaking. It is NOT a substitute for lessons from a certified instructor. Start off kayaking right, a course from a certified instructor will teach you the necessary skills and techniques to safely enjoy the river. Once you’ve got the proper foundation, there’s a ton of information out there from which to learn. Whitewater specific books, magazines, videos and web sites all exist and many are dedicated to helping you become a better and safer kayaker.

An honest self assessment of your skills is your first line of defense against an accident. Above all: RESPECT YOUR LIMITS AND RESPECT THE RIVER. If you’re unsure of a rapid- walk around. Always keep in mind river levels, changing river hazards, the weather and our impact on the river environment. Leave no trace and take only pictures. Educate yourself and have fun.

Being prepared won’t take any of the fun out of your day on the river but it can make all the difference if things don’t go as planned. One of the cool things about kayaking is that it’s almost never the same thing twice. River levels fluctuate, rocks can move and rapids can take on different personalities. But it’s exactly because of this variation that we need to take the time to scout even familiar rapids. On short rapids, all it may take is a simple boat scout from an eddy up above to spot a tree that has fallen into the current. On longer rapids, it’s a good idea to exit your boat and scout out the entire drop, checking for hazards but also keeping an eye out for potential surf waves and play holes.

Kayaking is fun but also has it’s fair share of risks. The keys to reducing these risks are:
1. Education; 2. Knowing your limits; 3. Common Sense; 4. Enrolling in a safety course by a certified instructor.

Before you put on the river ask yourself these questions:

• Has the group’s most experienced paddler been trained in certified rescue skills, CPR, and First Aid with special emphasis on treating hypothermia?
• Can all the members of our group handle the volume and the gradient of this river? Is it possible that an upstream dam will be opened?
• What are the major danger areas on the river? Are the holes and potential areas for pinning well identified and clearly outlined to all?
  Have you checked for new potential hazards such as: fallen trees, or ice formations?
  Can they easily be walked around?
• Does the temperature of the water represent a risk of hypothermia?
• Will we have enough daylight to complete the descent?
• How can we evacuate from the river if need be?
• What weather conditions have been forecasted?
• Do we have the proper equipment and is it in good working order?

Setting safety To help with communication among your group, make sure everyone agrees on a system of hand or whistle signals. On all but the simplest rapids it’s best to descend one paddler at a time, and when things get tricky you’ll want to have someone with a throwbag well positioned in case they need to retrieve a swimmer.

Eventually, everybody will swim. Practicing your wet exit in a controlled environment can make all the difference when the river decides it’s time for you exit your boat. If you swim in a relatively high volume flow, with few obstacles try and collect your gear immediately by grabbing hold of your kayak and your paddle and actively swimming towards shore. If you end up swimming a long or difficult rapid you may have to use a defensive whitewater swimming position: Float on your back, with your feet pointing downstream at the surface of the water. By positioning your feet in this manner you can use your legs to absorb impacts and to help deflect you away from obstacles.

Regardless of the flow you’ll always want to keep in mind the principal of SELF RESCUE. Use your arms to help you actively avoid dangerous obstacles and do the most you can to help yourself. If you find yourself in trouble don’t wait on someone else in your group to take action, instead immediately begin trying to help yourself, while keeping an eye out for a helping hand from one of your friends.

Never paddle alone. Leave information on departure/arrival times, # of people in your group, planned destination and the color of your kayaks on the dashboard of your car. Play it safe, respect yourself and respect the water. Warning: failure to follow the above safety precautions may lead to serious injury or death. The use of alcohol or drugs will affect your judgement and coordination and impair your capacity to safely operate a kayak.

Inspecting your equipment Riot whitewater kayaking equipment is designed to take the abuse of banging down rivers and throwing nonstop ends but periodically taking a look at your equipment can save you a whole lot of trouble on the river. Inspect the hull of your kayak, and it’s outfitting for possible damage. Examine your paddle shaft and blades for stress fractures, as well as your throwbag to make sure it’s packed properly.

Warming up A proper warm-up can improve your paddling session and help prevent injuries. Stretch and warm-up your torso (shoulders, arms, wrists, back and abs) before hitting the water. Don’t try and stick the big move or the difficult line right away. Use common sense and progress your effort over the duration of your time on the river.